Torrie Wilson Lingerie

Torrie Wilson Lingerie Career

Torrie Wilson made her WWF television debut on the June 28, 2001 episode of SmackDown! as part of The Alliance during the Invsion angle in 2001. In her first storyline with the company, she portrayed Vince McMahon's latest affair. Torrie Wilson also regularly teamed with fellow WCW performer Stacy Keibler. The duo made their wrestling debuts in the WWF in a Bra and Panties match against Lita and Trish Stratus at the InVasion pay-per-view, which Stratus and Lita won by stripping their opponents to their underwear.

Stacy Keibler Lingerie Career

Stacy Keibler Lingerie Career

When WCW was purchased by the World Wrestling Federation (WWF) in 2001, Keibler's contract was retained by the WWF. She portrayed a heel character in The Alliance. She made her WWF television debut on the June 14, 2001 episode of SmackDown! when Shane McMahon brought her to the ring to distract Rhyno, causing him to los a match. Stacy Keibler originally teamed up with real-life friend Torrie Wilson, and the pair feded with Divas Trish Stratus and Lita. During this fed, the four Divas competed in the first-ever tag team Bra and Panties match at the InVasion pay-per-view, which Trish and Lita won by stripping their opponents.

Serena Williams Lingerie Career

Serena Williams Lingerie Career

Serena Williams started the year by participating on the U.S. team that won the Hopman Cup for the fifth time in Perth, Australia.

Serena Williams entered the 2008 Australian Open as the defending champion and seventh seed but lost in the quarterfinals to World No. 4 and third-seeded Jelena Janković 6–3, 6–4. This was her fourth straight loss in the quarterfinals of a Grand Slam singles tournament. In the women's doubles event, Serena and her sister Venus lost in the quarterfinals to the seventh-seeded team, Zheng Jie and Yan Zi.

Serena Williams then withdrew from the tournaments in Paris, Antwerp, and Dubai due to an urgent need for dental surgery.

Upon her return to the tour, Serena Williams won three consecutive singles titles. At the Tier II tournament in Bangalore, India, Serena defeated sister Venus in the semifinals 6–3, 3–6, 7–6(4) after Serena saved a match point 6–5 in the third set. This was the first time they had played each other since the fourth round of the 2005 US Open. Serena then defeated Patty Schnyder of Switzerland in the final. At the Tier I Sony Ericsson Open in Key Biscayne, Florida, Serena Williams won her fifth career singles title there, tying Steffi Graf for the most singles titles at this tournament. Serena Williams defeated World No. 1 Justine Henin in the quarterfinals, World No. 3 Svetlana Kuznetsova in the semifinals, and World No. 4 Janković in the final. This was Williams's 30th career singles title. At the clay court Tier I Family Circle Cup in Charleston, South Carolina, Serena Williams defeated, for the fourth consecutive time, second-seeded Maria Sharapova in the quarterfinals 7–5, 4–6, 6–1. In the final, Serena Williams defeated Vera Zvonareva to capture her tenth career Tier I title and first clay court title since the 2002 French Open.

Maria Sharapova Lingerie Career

Maria Sharapova Lingerie Career
As the fifth seed at the Australian Open, Maria Sharapova defeated former World No. 1 Lindsay Davenport in the second round and World No. 1 Justine Henin in the quarterfinals 6–4, 6–0, ending the latter‘s 32-match winning streak. Maria Sharapova then reached her second consecutive Australian Open final when she defeated Jelena Jankovic 6–3, 6–1 in the semifinals, before defeating Ana Ivanovic 7–5, 6–3 in the final, thus winning her third Grand Slam title and doing so without losing a set.

After the Australian Open, Maria Sharapova extended her winning streak to 18 matches before finally losing. This run included participating for the first time in Fed Cup, winning both her singles rubbers against Israel, and winning the Tier I tournament in Doha, defeating Vera Zvonareva in the final. In the semifinals of Indian Wells, Maria Sharapova lost to Svetlana Kuznetsova, her first loss of the year.

Martina Hingis Lingerie

Martina Hingis Lingerie Career

In 1996, Martina Hingis became the youngest Wimbledon champion when she teamed with Helena Sukova to win the women's doubles title at age 15 years and 9 months. Martina Hingis also won her first professional singles title that year at Filderstadt, Germany. Martina Hingis reached the singles quarterfinals at the 1996 Australian Open and the singles semifinals of the 1996 US Open. Following her win at Filderstadt, Martina Hingis defeated the reigning Australian Open champion and co-top ranked (with Steffi Graf) Monica Seles 6–2, 6–0 in the final at Oakland. Martina Hingis then lost to Graf 6–3, 4–6, 6–0, 4–6, 6–0 at the year-end WTA Tour Championships.

In 1997, Martina Hingis became the undisputed World No. 1 women's tennis player. Martina Hingis started the year by winning the warm-up tournament in Sydney. Martina Hingis then became the youngest Grand Slam singles winner in the 20th century by winning the Australian Open at age 16 years and 3 months (beating former champion Mary Pierce in the final). In March, she became the youngest top ranked player in history. In July, she became the youngest singles champion at Wimbledon since Lottie Dod in 1887 by beating Jana Novotna in the final. Martina Hingis then defeated another up-and-coming player, Venus Williams, in the final of the US Open. The only Grand Slam singles title that Martina Hingis failed to win in 1997 was the French Open, where she lost in the final to Iva Majoli.

Before You Buy Your First Motorcycle

Before You Buy Your First Motorcycle

So you've learned your motorcycling basics, taken a safety course, and decided to take the plunge and buy your first bike?

If you're ready to shop for your first motorcycle, check out our list of 10 Great First Bikes and 10 Great Beginner Bikes. And here are important factors to consider before you make that big purchase:

Don't overestimate your ability.

One common mistake among newbies is to purchase a bike with far more performance than they can handle. Stay away from crotch rockets, especially anything with an engine larger than 600cc; when you learn how to ride on a slower bike, you'll become a better rider because of it. Plus, after you've honed your skills and gained experience, you'll be ready to upgrade and truly appreciate a faster bike.

Consider your needs.

Will you be riding in lots of traffic? Traveling long distances? Motorcycles come in many shapes and sizes, and you must consider your individual needs when picking a bike. Check out our Definitions of Different Bike Types article, and our Visual Guide to Types of Motorcycles photo gallery for an idea of what's out there.

Consider how you'll be using your bike, and how riding it will impact your experience; for instance, if you're looking for a weekend toy, you might be more tolerant of a sexy bike that happens to be uncomfortable.

Recognizing your needs will make choosing your future bike become infinitely easier.

Know your options.

Bikes have become increasingly specialized in recent years, and the proliferation of different types of motorcycles offers a number of choices that can be both empowering and daunting.

Once you have a better idea of what you want, take a look at our New Motorcycle Galleries and our New Motorcycle Reviews before you visit a dealership. While interacting with different bikes, you'll probably develop distinct likes and dislikes, which will get you one step closer to making a purchasing decision.

Choose a bike that fits your body.

This point is less obvious than it might sound. Bikes come in dramatically different shapes and sizes, and so does the human body. Try a bike on for size, and if possible, take it for a spin; you'll find that the ergonomic experience of riding will differ dramatically from bike to bike. That sport bike you thought was so cool, for instance, might strain your wrists to the point of discomfort. Conversely, that cruiser might win you over with its low seat and manageable center of gravity. You won't know until you try one on for size!

New or Used?

There are a number of tradeoffs associated with both new and used bikes, and there is no single "right" choice; the choice is completely individual, and depends on personal preferences (not to mention finances.)

Used bikes are great for beginners because there's usually less worry about scratching or damaging something that's not already in perfect shape. They're also often better values, since they've already depreciated, though they might not be as reliable as new bikes, and cost more money in the long run.

New bikes come with the comfort of reliability a warranty, though you'll pay a premium for that peace of mind.

Consider your long-term budget.

When committing to buy a motorcycle, don't forget to estimate all the added expenses associated with riding.

Before choosing a bike, be sure to check insurance rates with several carriers, and pick a plan that works with your budget; in general, the higher the deductible, the lower the premium.

You'll want to budget the cost of safety gear. A quality helmet, jacket, gloves, and pants can add up to a substantial amount of money.

Also, don't forget to account for the cost of routine maintenance which can vary wildly, depending on make and type of motorcycle.

Though it may be tempting, don't make a rash purchase...

Buying your first bike is an exciting endeavor, but don't get too swept away with the heat of the moment. If you see a bike and fall in love with it, make sure you'll enjoy owning it after the initial thrill fades. Have a used motorcycle checked out by a qualified mechanic. Read up about the model you're considering, and consider all factors-- economic, practical, and otherwise, before making your purchase.

Chances are, you won't regret your forethought!

... and yet, choose a bike you'll be excited to ride!

People rarely choose to buy a motorcycle because they have to; bike purchases are often guided by passion. In spite of the inevitable practical issues to consider, it's important to choose a bike that you'll be excited to ride.

Many experienced riders will suggest you buy a sensible first bike, and if you can find a motorcycle that fits all the logical criteria and also makes you excited to ride, you've chosen well!


New Motorcycle Buying Tips

New Motorcycle Buying Tips

Buying a new Motorcycle

Car buyers have a host of information about how to buy a new car. Consumer Reports and Edmunds offer detailed information on new models, dealer costs, test-drives, and negotiating tips.

However motorcycle buyers are limited to test ride information gathered in magazines like Motor Cyclist. These reviews tend to focus on high-performance bikes, and offer little in the way of buying tips.

What type of Motorcycle is Right for You?

First, you will want to decide what style of bike you want.

Bike manufacturers do offer some low-budget street motorcycles, typically with 250 cc (cubic centimeter) engines and typically at a cost around $3,000. These bikes are marketed towards beginners. I advise you to avoid these bikes. If you're on a limited budget, you may want to consider buying a used bike.

Most riders will get bored with the lack of power and the low and uncomfortable seating. These bikes can barely go 70 mph, and even then, they are buzzy and unsatisfying. Also, they are difficult to resell without taking a great loss.

Most people group bikes into three categories: Street, Dual-Purpose, and Off-Road. But, it's not that simple. Motorcycles fall into further sub-categories, and often bikes will cross two or more categories.

Touring Bikes

These are street only bikes and will typically cost anywhere from $10,000-$20,000. A touring bike, like the Honda Goldwing, is built for comfortable highway cruising and going on long-trips. Touring Bikes usually include a large front fairing and a host of storage compartments.

Touring bikes are like the Cadillac of motorcycles. They usually include large engines... anywhere from 1,000 cc to 1,500 cc. Usually, they weigh 700 lbs to 1,000 lbs. That's a lot of weight and unless you're travelling on a paved highway at high speeds, these bikes are difficult to control and maneuver. These bikes are ideal for experienced riders who plan to use them for long-distance travel. City riders should avoid Touring Bikes.


The term, Cruiser, refers to classic looking street bikes, like the Honda Shadow line, or most Harley Davidson offerings. These are one of the most popular styles of motorcycle, so bike-makers tend to offer a wide array of bikes to fit many budgets and many levels of experience. These bikes can cost anywhere from $5,000 to $20,000. They typically weigh 450 lbs to 1,000 lbs.

The thing that distinguishes a Cruiser is the liberal use of chrome, the loud exhaust note, the large comfortable seat, and the relatively low-to-the-ground seating position. Style and comfort is the key to a Cruiser.

Depending on the model you choose, these bikes are great for city riding as well as highway riding. To further complicate matters, many offerings, such as the Honda Valkyrie, combine Cruiser styling with Touring Bike features, like multiple storage compartments.

Sport Bikes

This is another sub-category of Street Bike. Sport Bikes are the Sports Car of Motorcycles. These are immensely popular among younger riders.

Sport Bikes are built for performance; comfort and convenience take a back-seat. These bikes are distinguished by the multitude of body panels, which offer better aerodynamics. The seating position also forfeits comfort for aerodynamics. You are seated to the rear of the bike, yet your body must lean forward over the gas-tank in order to reach the handlebars.

The engine size usually ranges from 600 cc to 1,200 cc. They can cost anywhere from $5,000 to $20,000. These bikes weigh anywhere from 350 lbs to 500 lbs. Because of their light-weight, even a 600 cc sport bike will offer impressive acceleration, braking, and turning. These bikes are not good for long trips. Also worth noting... insurance companies see these bikes as particularly risky and are likely to charge higher than average insurance rates.

Standard Bikes

Back in the 60's, with the introduction of Japanese made bikes in the U.S., came the advent of Standard Bikes. These were meant to be cheap, reliable transportation. Due to the popularity of Sport Bikes and Cruisers, makers do not offer many Standard Bikes. A Standard Bike, like the Honda Nighthawk, usually includes a 600 to 700 cc engine and typically costs $4,000 to $6,000.

These bikes are excellent for beginners. They are well balanced, well powered, light-weight, reliable and offer the most bang-for-the-buck. They are as comfortable for city use as they are for highway use. With an upright seating position, your back is unlikely to become cramped. The seat is not as comfortable as a Cruiser or a Touring Bike. Also, these bikes typically do not include a front-fairing to block wind at high speeds.

Some manufacturers offer crossover bikes, like the Honda Superhawk. This bike is based on the Standard Nighthawk, but it includes some of the aerodynamic and performance features of a Sport Bike. This may be a good choice for someone who likes the style of a Sport Bike, but who would like a little more comfort.

Motocross and Enduro Bikes

These bikes are meant for off-road only use. They are very light. They usually weigh 150 lbs to 300 lbs. They have small engines... 50 cc to 500 cc. And they cost much less than street bikes... $1,300 to $6,000.

Motocross bikes are usually for recreational trail riding, whereas Enduro bikes are built for off-road competition riding. They offer knobby tires, for good off-road traction. They also have a high center of gravity so that you can ride over obstacles without fear of scraping the bottom of your bike.

Dual-Purpose Bikes

My BMW F650 is considered a dual-purpose bike. Dual-Purpose bikes have knobby tires and a high center of gravity. In addition, they include features, like a headlight, turn-signals, and emissions control to make them street-legal.

Because these bikes weigh upwards of 350 lbs, they are not meant to ride on rough terrain. But, they are great for dirt roads and trails. They also offer the convenience of being able to ride on the street. Most of these bikes have 400 cc to 600 cc engines and typically cost $3,000 to $10,000. My BMW, is a cross between an off-road bike and a Touring Bike.

Narrowing your choices

As you can see, there are many bikes for many riders. You will also want to consider your own size and experience. If you are a beginner, you will want to avoid motorcycles that are particularly heavy or particularly fast. You may want to consider a Standard Bike or a Dual-Purpose Bike. These are light enough for a new rider to manage, they offer many uses, and they aren't particularly fast.

As far as your size is concerned, you will want to consider a bike that can handle your weight. For new riders who weigh over 200 lbs, you will want a bike with 600-900 cc's.

If you're more experienced, then you may consider a bike with 1,000 cc's. If you're a new rider, and you weigh under 150 lbs, you probably shouldn't get a bike with over 650 cc's. But, you should still be careful, because Sport Bikes with as little as 600 cc's may be overwhelmingly fast for a new rider.

You'll also want to be sure that you are tall enough to straddle the bike and place both of your feet on the ground. A shorter rider may be limited to a Cruiser style of bike.

By now, hopefully you've narrowed your choices down to two or three styles, you know how much you're willing to spend, and you know approximately how large of an engine you want. Check the yellow pages in your area to find out what bike makers have dealers in your area. You may find that some of the European manufacturers do not sell bikes in your area.

Next, you will want to do some research. You should check many manufacturers for bikes that may suit your needs. This includes, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki, as well as some European makes like Ducati and BMW. I've found that Suzuki seems to offer the widest array of Street Bikes. So, that may be a good start.

Visiting a Motorcycle Dealer

Before you visit the motorcycle dealer, you should have done enough research to know how much the bike retails, and what features are included. Going into this, you should be aware that prices are often non-negotiable... particularly on popular models.

Once you get to the dealership, you are likely to be approached by a salesman. Motorcycle dealerships are usually more laid-back then car dealerships. You probably won't be bothered by an overly persistent salesman.

Anyway, let him know what you are there to see, and be prepared to ask any questions that you have. But, don't be surprised if they don't have the answers. Just persist and ask them to find out for you.

Many dealerships will not let you ride their bikes. But, you should make every effort to at least take a test ride in the parking lot. If that fails, you should sit on the bike and start the engine. If they won't even let you do this, tell them "thanks, but no-thanks," and leave. This is inconsiderate and you don't want to buy from a dealer like this.

You will want to notice if the seat is comfortable, if the handlebars are comfortable and if your knees rest neatly on either side of the gas tank. If the seating position is uncomfortable, you're not going to have much fun riding this bike. I have found that Suzuki's offer particularly comfortable seating positions.

You'll also want to pay attention to the engine. Rev it! Does it have a nice smooth feel at high RPM's? Or does it feel annoyingly buzzy?

Also, while you're straddling the bike and holding the handlebars, try to determine if the weight is good. Is it easy to control? Could you pick it up if it were to fall over?

Take note of any bikes that are marked down. These are probably slow-selling models and you may have even more room to negotiate.

Buying the Bike

Do yourself a favor... Never Buy a Bike on your first visit! This goes for an automobile too. You should always look at multiple bikes from multiple manufacturers before making a decision. You may really like the first bike that you look at, but what if the second bike is better. Give yourself some choices.

Also, the excitement and anticipation of buying a new motorcycle can cause you to temporarily lose your ability to think clearly. You should look at many bikes, consider the features that you like about each, then sit down and compare the bikes.

Once you've settled on a bike, then you can return to the dealership. Tell the salesperson which model you'd like to purchase. You won't be able to special order your bike like you would with a car. So, you'll have to settle on a motorcycle in their existing inventory.

Unless the bike is a slow-seller, you will probably have to pay full retail. Bike dealers do not have the large margins and large volumes that auto dealers do; so they are less willing to negotiate.

Of course, it won't hurt to make an offer. If your offer is more than $500 below retail, then they probably won't take you seriously. Usually, your best hope is to ask for some accessories, like a helmet, heated handle-grips, and a set of saddlebags.

At the very least, the dealer should offer you a discount on any accessories. Be sure that you get a good helmet, a good set of leather gloves, a pair of riding boots, and some rain-gear. You can usually add any extra costs into the financing.

Motorcycle dealers have access to financial services. So, they can usually offer competitive financing. Still, it won't hurt to get pre-approved for a loan from your own bank. Then you can decide which is the better rate for you. Leasing is not typically an option.

Good Luck with your new purchase and Ride Safely!

15 Riding In Traffic Tips

15 Riding In Traffic Tips

Basics? Sure. But keeping them fresh in your cranial RAM could be the difference between riding tomorrow and The Long Nap

Close your eyes and recall your last ride in heavy traffic. Imagine the vehicles surrounding you, crowding you, cutting you off. Imagine yourself monitoring closing speeds, reading street signs, noticing and anticipating traffic lights. Then imagine guessing what pedestrians will do, or how slippery that painted line might be. And those drivers with cell phones, newspapers or screaming kids to deal with...imagine trying to guess what they're going to do.

Riding in traffic can be a nightmare, especially for street-riding newcomers. Is it any wonder so many motorcyclists crash and burn while riding on congested streets? It's amazing how many different tasks motorcyclists deal with on a normal traffic-choked commute. Doing it successfully means processing a multitude of items at once and reacting correctly to each. Doing it wrong can mean roadkill--the human kind.Here are 15 smart strategies for dealing with traffic-choked streets.

Watch drivers' heads and mirrors

Watching the head movements of drivers through their windows and mirrors is an excellent way to anticipate sudden moves. Most drivers won't lunge left or right without first moving their heads one way or another (even if they don't check their mirrors).

Trust your mirrors, but not totally

Your bike's mirrors can be lifesavers, but they don't always tell the entire story even if they're adjusted properly. In traffic, always buttress your mirror-generated rear view with a glance over the appropriate shoulder. Do it quickly and you'll add an extra measure of rear-view and blind-spot knowledge to your info-gathering tasks.

Never get between a vehicle and an offramp

This sounds almost too simple, but drivers who decide to exit at the last minute kill plenty of riders each year. The simple rule, then, is to never position yourself between a vehicle and an offramp. Passing on the right is generally a no-no, but in this day and age it's sometimes necessary. So if you do it, do so between exits or cross-streets.

Cover your brakes

In traffic you must often react extra quickly, which means not fumbling for the brake lever or pedal. To minimize reach time, always keep a finger or two on the brake lever and your right toe close to the rear brake pedal. When that cell phone-yakking dorkus cuts across your path trying to get to the 7-Eleven for a burrito supreme, you'll be ready.

Be noticed

Make sure drivers and pedestrians can see you, even from a distance. Ride with your high beam on during the day (as a courtesy, turn it off when sitting behind someone at a light), and wear brightly colored gear, especially your helmet and jacket. Aerostich's Hi Vis yellow suits and jackets aren't just hugely conspicuous, they've also become fashionable, so now you don't have an excuse.

Be ready with the power

In traffic, ride in a gear lower than you normally would so your bike is ready to jump forward instantly if asked. (Not everyone rides open-class twins, after all.) Doing so gives you the option of leaping ahead instead of being limited to just using the brakes when that pickup suddenly moves over. The higher revs might also alert more cagers to your presence.

Traffic slowing? Stay left (or right)

When traffic slows suddenly, stay to the left or right of the car in front of you. This will give you an escape route if needed. It will also help keep you from becoming a hood ornament if the car behind you fails to stop in time. Once you've stopped, be ready--clutch in, your bike in gear and your eyes on the mirrors. You never know.

Practice the scan

Constantly scanning your entire environment while riding--from instruments to mirrors to the road ahead to blind spots to your left and right rear--keeps you aware and in touch with your situation, and therefore better able to react. Dwelling on one area too long--watching only behind or in front of you, for instance--is just begging for trouble.

Left-turn treachery

When approaching an oncoming car that's stopped and about to turn left, be ready. Your brights should be on so the driver can see you (during the day), but don't rely on this to save you. Watch the car's wheels or the driver's hands on the steering wheel; if you see movement, be ready to brake, swerve or accelerate, whichever seems best for the situation.

Study the surface

Add asphalt conditions to your scan. Be on the lookout for spilled oil, antifreeze or fuel; it'll usually show up as shiny pavement. Also keep an eye out for gravel and/or sand, which is usually more difficult to see. Use your sense of smell, too; often you can smell spilled diesel fuel before your tires discover how slippery the stuff is.

Ride in open zones

Use your bike's power and maneuverability to ride in open zones in traffic. In any grouping of vehicles there are always some gaps; find these and ride in them. Doing so will separate you from four-wheelers, give you additional room to maneuver and allow you to keep away from dangerous blind spots. And vary your speed. Riding along with the flow can make you invisible to other drivers, especially in heavy traffic.

Use that thumb

Get into the habit of canceling your turn signals often regardless of the traffic situation. A blinking signal might tell drivers waiting to pull into the road or turning left in front of you that you're about to turn when you aren't. So push that switch a few times each minute. Better to wear out the switch than eat a Hummer's hood, eh?

It's good to be thin

A huge advantage single-track vehicles have over four-wheelers is their ability to move left and right within a lane to enable the rider to see what's ahead. Whether you're looking to the side of the cars ahead or through their windshields, seeing what's coming can give you lots of extra time to react.

More than one way out

Yeah, motorcycles fall down. But they're also light, narrow and hugely maneuverable, so you might as well learn to exploit their strengths when things get ugly, right? So don't just brake hard in a hairball situation. There's almost always an escape route. Swerving into Mrs. Smith's front yard could be a lot better than centerpunching the Buick that turned left in front of you. Always have an escape route planned, and update it minute by minute.

Running interference

This one's easy, and we'll bet most of you already do it: Let larger vehicles run interference for you when negotiating intersections. If the bonehead coming toward you from the left or right is going to blow the light, better they hit the box van next to you, right? For the same reasons, don't lunge through an intersection as soon as the light turns green. Be patient, and use the vehicles next to you as cover.


First Time Car Buying Tips For Teens

First Time Car Buying Tips For Teens


Safe Teen Driving

* Advice and car financing strategies for first time car buyers, teens, high school students and their parents

* AutoCheck Vehicle History Reports: how to save thousands in losses when you buy a used car

* How to use your AutoCheck Vehicle History Report to negotiate a lower used car price

* How to get your credit score online at Experian, Equifax or TrueCredit

* How to refinance to a lower interest rate using lenders like Capital One Auto Finance and Up2Drive

* Information on safe teen driving

Do not attempt to buy a car until you have read this entire chapter including the Teen Driver Safety below and the links we provide to our other helpful chapters.

First Time Car Buying

If you are a teenager in high school, or a college student with no established credit history, there are a number of barriers in the way to your entry into car ownership. When you are young and invincible, you have all these starry eyed dreams about the car you are going to get, then reality sets in, as concepts you never had to deal with before suddenly leap out of no where to crush your dream and knock you back down to earth. How are you going to pay for your new car? Have you gotten insurance quotes? Who will finance you? Now you have to pay $80 a month in gas, and there's oil changes, new batteries to buy, and other unexpected expenses. We advise all car buyers to purchase a car that you can afford to pay off in 48 months. You must also put down 20% on the car to keep from getting upside down, where you owe more on the car than it is worth. If you cannot put down 20% on the car, then do not buy that car. You must buy a car in which you can afford to put down 20%. There is no room for arrogance or indignant responses here, it's a mathematical fact of life. Every single person who breaks this rule runs into trouble when they trade in their car later. You never ever want to be in the position of owing more than your car is worth. If you determine that you can afford a new car, then make sure you enter new car dealers with The Folder of competitive new car price quotes, or you'll overpay by thousands. InvoiceDealers,, Yahoo!Autos,,, and CarsDirect all help you save when buying new cars.

If you cannot squeeze that car loan into 48 months, do not buy that car, you are heading down a path of destruction.

You don't want to spend the next 6 years paying off a car. Go buy a cheaper car instead. Remember, your car loan is but one of many cost items contributing to your overall cost of vehicle ownership. Most people overlook all the other cost items and get into trouble real quick, not realizing insurance goes up on a new car. You should create a budget that accounts for all your annual costs to own that car, like loan payments, tires, insurance, maintenance, etc. Then from your budget, you should determine if you can handle that much of an annual drain on your finances. If you cannot afford a new car, we suggest buying a quality dependable used car like Honda Accord or Toyota Camry, which typically run years with out costly repair issues. That is what is most important with your first car, safety and dependability, especially once you head off to college and cannot afford a single thing to go wrong. If you are going to buy a used car, be sure you read our guide How To Buy a Used Car And Avoid Scams. It's the best used car buying advice, with our used car bill of sale form, reviews of online used car classifieds, how to buy a used car from dealers or private sellers, negotiating with tough sellers, scams to avoid and a list of questions for you to print out to ask the seller. DO not attempt to buy a used car until you read that chapter. If you buy a used car, you absolutely must go get an AutoCheck Vehicle History Report on the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) AND have a mechanic inspect the car on a lift. If you do not do both of these vital steps, then do not buy that used car. You have been warned. Do not email me asking how you get out of your purchase if something goes wrong, because I cannot help you. You must nip the problem proactively in the bud, not reactively after it happens.

There is no 3 day buyer's remorse grace period for you to return the car after buying it

There is no "undo button" when you buy a car. You buy it, the deal is done. There is no 3 day grace period to return your car, although many people erroneously think there is one. You should not continue to shop for cars after you buy your car and expect the dealer to take the car back, just because you found it cheaper later on. It's unethical and not the way to do business. We get emails about this all the time, and just delete them.

Barriers to getting your fist car

Since you have never bought a car before, here are the barriers and concepts you must keep in mind when car shopping:

* Lack of credit history is the biggest barrier, it is very difficult to get a car loan

* Some car salespeople will rake you over the coals if you are a first time car buyer

* Lenders won't approve car loans on used cars older than 5 years

* Insurance rates for teens especially are very costly, often in the $5000 range

* Insurance rates for single males under the age of 25 are also very costly

* Now you have to deal with car repairs and other maintenance costs, new tires, etc.

* Safety perspective: Teen driving safety issues

Let's examine some of the above barriers to buying your first car in more detail:

Lack of credit history

We advise all car buyers not to apply for a car loan unless you have checked your own credit score and credit report first. After all, that is what the car dealers do, so you better know what's wrong before they do. A car salesperson should never know more about your credit than you do. What is this concept of credit history? Why won't they just lend me money for my car? This is the first barrier that crushes your dream to buy that new car. Many young adults have not yet established credit of their own yet, because Mom and Dad have been footing the bill until now, but maybe Mom and Dad cannot afford to buy that first car for you, so you try it on your own. Reality hits you real hard here, because this is where most people fail to understand the rules of the game in order to get approved for a car loan. People with bad credit pay higher auto loan interest rates. It can hurt your job prospects, insurance companies check your credit too. Get your credit report instantly online, it's a must for The Folder. DO NOT apply for new car loans until you get your credit report WITH credit score. Get your credit score online at Experian, Equifax or TrueCredit. Remember, you can run your own credit file all you want, but if dealers run it for new car loans, then your score drops a few points. If your Credit Score is <>

Rules of the auto financing the game you must play by

So here's the rules of auto financing the game. By approving you for a car loan, lenders want you to have an established pattern of credit showing you paid your bills on time, no black marks on your credit history, no forgetting to pay your bills, no paying your bills 30, 60, 90 days past due. Lenders want to see you have a minimum monthly income of $1600, so if you work part time at Blockbuster Video, forget about getting a car loan, you won't meet the minimum criteria. Don't even think about financing a car you'll get rejected, it's just one of those sad facts of life.

Before approving you for a car loan, lenders and car dealers pull your credit report and look at all your past creditors and current open credit accounts and loans. They don't like to see lots of open accounts, so keep it to a bare minimum, you don't need every department store card, in fact you don't need any department store card, they are mostly 21% APR. I tell people just get one gas card, and one MasterCard, and pay them off every month, don't run a balance, or you will pay 15-21% interest on your credit card. That is what puts people horribly behind, because if you only pay the minimum credit card payment, it will take you 10-11 years to pay off the credit card. Lenders also don't want to see any of your credit card balances above 50%, or they will reject you. Keep your balances at $0 whenever possible. Smart shoppers use their ATM debit cards to pay for purchases. Lenders want proof that you have been living at the same address for 6 months, otherwise you'll get rejected. Statistics show people not in place for 6 months are nomads, otherwise why do they keep moving? These nomads are very likely to default on their loan. In the car financing landscape, there is online financing, and car dealer financing.

What do you do if you have no credit history at all? How do you establish credit?

What if you have no credit at all? How can you win the chicken and the egg game if lenders only lend money to people with established credit? This is the other big hurtle faced by most first time buyers. You must establish credit. Once you do, you must be responsible and pay on time, and don't overspend. This might require you to wait another 6 months to a year on the car loan while you go and get your credit established, and build somewhat of a history showing that you pay your monthly revolving credit card bills on time. A good time to do this then would be 6 months before you think you might buy a new car. It's fairly easy to get a gas card from your favorite gas station, or a credit card from Target stores. As you do your normal shopping at Target, use your credit card, but pay it off in full each month. Don't overspend, and never let any balance on any of your credit cards reach the level of 50% of your credit limit. That has a bad effect on your credit score. Then while you are in your 6 month building credit period, you are saving even more money to put down on the car, making your payments less. Patience pays off in the long run.

Until you get your first credit card, you probably have no credit score, or it's below 550, where no lender will touch you. This is why people get rejected. It is so unbelievably amazing how stupid many "adults" are, who think they can breeze their way through life and not pay their bills, thinking no one is watching. Big brother is indeed watching. Every bill you refuse to pay, doctors bills, credit card payments, loan installments, traffic tickets, bankruptcies, foreclosures, late apartment rent, arrest records, ALL gets reported on your credit report, and it definitely 100% keeps you from getting financing later in life, for 7 years. I hope you heed our warnings and that you'll learn from other people's mistakes, not your own, be much smarter from than these people. Lastly, lenders will not approve loans on any used car over 5 years old. So if you are buying an older used car, the only way to finance it is with cash. Don't fall for any crazy off the wall financing schemes here, just pay cash on older used cars.

If your Credit Score is <> 550, and you have no bad credit for 6 months, AutoCreditFinders Bad Credit Auto Loans can help you establish credit with lower online auto loan rates than dealers. If you had bad credit in the past, then a bad credit auto loan might be your only hope.

Co-sign loans can help you establish credit

You still can't get approved for that car loan? Try riding off your parents' coattails. If the lenders reject your car loan application, many car dealers can do what is known as a co-sign loan, where the loan is in your name, AND ALSO your parents' name, if they sign as the co-signer. This means the loan is really in the names of two parties at once, but it does benefit you by establishing credit in your name, as it is also in your name. If your parents were to just apply for a car loan in their name to buy you a car, you would not get the benefit of establishing credit in your name. This is very serious business so pay attention here. If you default on the car loan payments on this type of car loan, your parents then become responsible for your monthly payments, and if neither of you pay up, both of your credit histories take a hit, and they repossess the car. This can prevent your parents from re-financing their house for up to 7 years from now. That will also pretty much keep you from getting another car loan, or any type of financing on furniture, or apartment rentals for 7 years, no matter how much money you are earning 4 years from now. When you get out of college and are earning $90,000 a year, it does not matter to the lenders because you have shown a past of not paying your bills. This affects many adults who angrily email me asking why the bank turned them down when they earn a six figure salary. We call this situation Cash Rich, and Credit Poor. Your past will come back to haunt you in your adult life. Never co-sign a loan with a friend, room mate, boyfriend, or girlfriend, it almost always ends in disaster. Many people who co-sign end up defaulting, leaving the co-signer in jeopardy. You can see how delicate and risky this co-signer car financing strategy is, but it is completely safe if you pay on time, and the next car loan you apply for will be under your own name since you were a good customer who paid on time. One warning about co-sign loans, is there are some real unscrupulous car dealers out there, who lie to you and say you are getting a co-sign loan. Then they trick the cosigner (Mom, Dad, Grandma) into signing the wrong line of the loan papers and the loan ends up in their name alone, instead of both of your names together. This is known as a Straw Purchase. They pull this scam because they know you would never get approved, and they just want to sell the car. We hear about this all the time. The law requires both people to be present and sign at the same time, and you need to make sure the correct names go on the correct lines of the application, identifying you as the borrower, and your parents as the co-signer. Never leave your income blank on the application, the dealer will lie and write in an inflated number to get the application through. Let's review:

What lenders look for to approve you for a car loan

* Documented Monthly income of $1600 or more

* Living in the same address for at least 6 months

* Employed by the same company for 6 months

* Preferably a year of established credit with no black marks

* Credit score of 680 or higher to get lowest prevailing interest rates

* If your credit score is 600 to 680 you'll pay higher rates like 10%-15% APR

* If your credit score is below 600, it's very difficult to get approval, and below 550 it is nearly impossible

Let's look at how paying a high interest rate does an enormous amount of damage to your wallet over time. A person like me with a great credit score might get a car loan at 4%. But if you have a bad credit history, or no credit history at all, you can pay up to 6 times the amount of interest over the life of your loan that I might pay. This is why people who are broke will stay broke all their lives and never break the downward spiral, because they spend virtually all their income on interest charges and late fees. Sometimes the financing interest rate (APR) of a car loan can be so high that the payments will actually keep you from getting a car you wanted, all due to the higher APR. Look at this table below to see how bad the damage gets on a $15,000 car loan for 48 months:

Looking at the table above, you can see how urgent it is for you to establish healthy credit, and maintain your healthy credit score, or you will spend your whole life wasting your meager earnings on interest, when it should be building your nest egg. This is why most people, even those ready to retire are broke. A lifetime of careless spending habits, paying only the minimum monthly payment, and paying full price for everything has left them with no nest egg.

How to lower your current car loan payments

If you got suckered into a high APR car loan, just wait about 6 months and you can refinance your car loan down to a lower rate and save money. This is how big corporations work. They are constantly restructuring their debt to get their interest rates lower and save money. This is how we should run our own finances too. Why should you keep paying a high interest rate when there is a lender waiting to refinance your car loan down to a much lower interest rate? Fast and easy lenders like Capital One Auto Finance or Up2Drive are offering popular auto refinancing loans. They pay off your current car loan, and now you pay them back at your new lower APR rate. Your car loan can be completely refinanced within 2 days after you apply. Do your friends a huge favor. If you know anyone who is paying a high APR car loan, have them read this article, you'll save them thousands, and you'll be their hero.

Insurance rates for teens especially are very costly, often in the $5000 range

You can expect to be heavily blindsided by insurance costs if you are high school teenager looking to buy a new car. Just try to get a quote on a Mustang, and if they don't laugh you out of their office, you'll see numbers like $5000. In fact, car insurance rates are usually higher on 2 doors cars than on 4 door cars, usually because of the sportier status of 2 door cars. They know you are likely to race. This is why you see a lot of younger kids buying these little 4 door cars for the lower insurance rates, then rigging them up to the hilt to make them go faster. Insurance rates also depend on what part of town you live in, your local population and how many miles you drive annually. You can shop around your auto insurance rates at sites like Comparison Market, GEICO and Progressive Auto Insurance. Your insurance rates may drop a bit if you have an alarm on the car, or if you keep it in your garage. You must include car insurance in your annual cost budget to see if you can afford to keep driving the car you bought. You cannot go without car insurance, it is illegal, and disrespectful to others on the road, who are relying on you having insurance should you cause a wreck. See if you can get in on your parent's auto insurance, of if there is an umbrella policy protecting the house and all cars. Either way, make sure you get full coverage including with high coverage amounts.

You should get Underinsured or Uninsured Motorist Coverage

One of my personal favorites. I think EVERYONE should have this coverage, because it protects us from all the loser morons out there who refuse to insure their cars. Here in Florida, uninsured drivers is worse than a problem, it's a plague. I know so many people who got burnt royally because of uninsured drivers. In Florida you have to show proof of insurance to renew your tags. But many people just take out a policy, send in proof to the state, then let the policy lapse after a month, and then the policy gets canceled. If I was king, the insurance companies would notify the state, who would then send a tow truck to impound these losers' cars, and they don't get them back until they renew the insurance, and pay the towing fees on top of that. Underinsured Motorist coverage pays for your injuries up to the policy limit when the other driver either has no insurance, or their lame coverage can't pay for you injuries or property damage. This coverage usually includes hit and run drivers as well.

Vehicle Maintenance costs

Welcome to the party pal! There's more costs to car ownership than just your monthly payment. Many people overlook this other large expense of car ownership, and instead focus on just the monthly payments of their car loan. But you also have other expensive obligations to your vehicle, which you now become slave to. Assume your insurance is $2400 annually, your monthly obligation adds $200 on top of your car loan. You better be ready for that. You can expect your monthly gas bill to be about $60. You should assume your tires will need replacing once a year at $160 per tire or $640 annually, and maybe more for a wheel alignment. Then there's the twice a year oil changes, and you must allow for one medium sized repair every year. Add all those up, calculate your average monthly expense, and add it to your car loan and see if you can afford it. I bet you won't be able to afford it. If you cannot work all those costs into your budget, then you need to buy a cheaper car to allow for your maintenance costs. This nails a lot of people who don't leave room in their budget for ALL ownership costs. Don't bite off more than you can chew, don't try to maximize your monthly payment without leaving room for maintenance items, car insurance, and unexpected repairs.


Car Buying Tips

Car-Buying Tips for a Slow Economy

How To Find and Make a Good Deal in Tough Times

By Joanne Helperin, Senior Features Editor

Whether you believe we're in a recession or simply a slow economy, the news hasn't been good. The housing debacle, credit crunch and tumbling dollar mean many consumers have a hard time making car payments and paying for fuel. As a result, more people need to get out of their car lease early, delay buying a new car, or buy a used car instead of a new one. And with gas prices near $4 per gallon, there will be more demand (and probably fewer deals) for compact and hybrid vehicles.

Automakers are also tightening their belts, closing dealerships, eliminating "twinned" vehicles and carrying some of their lowest inventory levels since 2002. That translates to less selection on the car lot.

So consumers are caught in a tug of war: Car dealers, most of whom already are facing hard times, need to increase their profitability — just as car buyers are trying to spend less. This affects the entire car-buying process, from vehicle availability to new car financing and incentives to lease deals and the price of used cars. Here's what you can expect and how to best take advantage of the slow economy's impact.

Financing Your New Car

Historically, automakers and dealers have pumped up sales with financial incentives, and this slow economy is no exception. Expect to see higher cash rebates (manufacturer-to-customer and possibly dealer-to-customer), and more zero-percent financing and low APR programs, particularly from domestic automakers.

While such auto incentives used to blanket an entire brand, this time around expect automakers to cherry-pick which models get big incentives. Understandably, the biggest discounts will be on large, gas-guzzling trucks and SUVs. Incentives will also vary from one geographic region to another depending on vehicle demand.

Rules of thumb for auto incentives:

* Unless there's a zero-percent program or the interest rate is less than the prime rate, keep your term as short as possible. To help decide which program is better for you, use our Low APR vs. Cash Back calculator or this basic rule of thumb: If you'll keep your car three years or less, take the cash. Four years or more, take the low APR.

* If you're considering switching brands, ask the sales manager (not just the salesperson) about any "conquest" rebates. This can mean up to $1,500 toward sweetening the deal.

* Beware of the six- and seven-year car loans that are trickling down from very expensive brands to more mainstream ones, such as Toyota. Don't use a longer-term loan to get into a vehicle you can't really afford or to spread the cost of a negative-equity trade (being "upside down" on your current vehicle).

* Unless your credit is good, be prepared to put down a larger down payment or look for a used car instead. It's more difficult than before for folks with below-average credit to find car financing, as banks and finance companies are tightening their standards.

Car Leasing

As a countermeasure against falling residual values, a number of manufacturers have overhauled their leasing programs. So if you leased in the past, the same rules may not apply. Additionally, many lease payments will be so high that consumers will have no choice but to go to a less expensive vehicle — one they can actually afford.

In addition, keep the following advice in mind as you shop for a new lease:

* Credit requirements will be tighter. In some cases, only people with the best credit will qualify for manufacturers' leases.

* Dealers will urge people to buy rather than lease and extend the loan terms to 60, 72 and even 84 months. (Warning: This results in more "upside-down" buyers and more buyers will carry negative equity from one car loan to another.)

* The higher payment might still make sense if you can take the tax write-off as a business deduction.

* Check several banks, smaller leasing companies or your credit union for a good lease. (Our financing tab will help you get rates from different companies.)

* If it suits your needs, look to foreign automakers, whose lease programs are stronger.

* Consumers looking to take over someone else's lease can visit Lease Trader or Swapalease.

* Buying looks better than ever, especially with dramatic incentives in both cash and financing.

* Carmakers will offer low-interest financing to try to match low lease payments of the past.

Used Cars Are Affected, Too

As the amount of money in consumers' pockets goes down, people who cannot afford the new car they want will look at less expensive new models, but will consider used cars as well — possibly for the first time. Say you're a Ford guy with your heart set on an Explorer, but you can't afford a new one. You could consider an Escape, or you could simply buy a used late-model Explorer instead.

This means that older cars that are "clean" — in good condition — will hold their value and depreciate less quickly. For example, a very clean eight-year-old Honda Accord with 60,000 miles may cost a few hundred dollars more than it used to, as consumers compete for reliable (and fuel-efficient) vehicles.

Rules of thumb:

* There is a silver lining: If you currently own a good car, it will retain its value better than before the economic slowdown when you sell or trade it. Use Edmunds' Used Car Appraiser to learn your car's True Market Value® (TMV®) so you can hold out for the right price.

* If your current car is still under warranty and in very good condition, dealers will want it for their Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programs.

* More CPO cars will be available on dealer lots. They cost up to $1,500 more than the same car without certification, but offer peace of mind and longer warranties.

* Compact vehicles will hold their value better overall, as people start realizing the cost of all that horsepower. Ask yourself if you really need a V6 when a four-cylinder engine will do the same job.

So Where Are the Deals?

If you do nothing else before buying a new car, at least check the latest auto Incentives and Rebates and Deals of the Month for a head start. Remember, there are always bargains to be had, even in tough economic times.

For new cars:

* Look again at larger vehicles. If you don't put a lot of miles on your car each year, the discount programs on these vehicles may more than outweigh the difference you'll spend in fuel.

* Due to the weak dollar, luxury and midrange vehicles from European automakers may offer new incentives.

For used cars:

* There are very sweet deals on recent model-year vehicles that didn't sell that well when they were new. Many of these are rental or fleet vehicles (former company cars), including Chryslers (like the 300) and minivans. Some examples: A 2007 Ford Five Hundred SEL four-door sedan with a 3.0-liter engine and automatic transmission had a $23,785 MSRP, and an invoice price of $22,031. You can buy it used now for around $16,995. Similarly, the 2007 Kia Sedona LX with a new MSRP of $24,295 can now be bought used for under $18,000.

* Don't wait too long to buy: There may be less selection to choose from come summer/late summer than in years past, since people who don't have the money to buy a new car may choose to hold onto their cars longer.

In the meantime, if you do decide to hang onto your car for a while longer, make it last using our tips, "Top Five Ways to Make Your Car Run Forever."


Online Safer Banking Tips

Online Safer Banking Tips

There are a few simple things you can do to help protect yourself online, not just when using banking online but when using the internet in general.

When using Fastnet Classic we recommend you do the following:

· Select a suitable Password

· Always protect your Password

· Use ASB's two-factor security solution, Netcode

· Tell us if your suspect your Password is known by someone else. Similarly, let us know if your Netcode device has been lost or stolen

· Always log out of FastNet Classic

You can also help protect your computer and your identity online by doing the following:

· Check that the website is secure, when you are entering in your personal information

· Be careful with emails

· Secure your computer

Select a suitable Password

The first time you sign on to FastNet Classic you will need to select a personal Fastnet Classic Password that is easy for you to remember but difficult for anyone else to guess. Unsuitable passwords include number and letter combinations that may be easily guessed (e.g. 3456, ABC, 1111, AAA), passwords used by you for other banking or non-banking services, or other easily accessible personal information (e.g. birthdate, family, pet or street names).

Always protect your Password

Never write your password down or give it out to anyone. Remember that we will never ask you for your online banking password. It is also important that you change your online password regularly. To do this, sign on to FastNet Classic, select Update Details from the left hand menu and then select Change Password.

Register for Netcode

Netcode is ASB's two-factor authentication solution - an extra layer of security in addition to your password to make sure it's really you using FastNet Classic internet banking, and to help protect your bank account against fraudulent people.

A Netcode is a unique number that is either texted to your mobile phone, or generated on a Token, when making certain transactions in FastNet Classic. So even if your access code and password were to fall into the wrong hands, you can rest assured that no money over your daily Netcode limit would be paid out of your account, without your approval.

Let us know if you suspect that your Password is known by someone or if your Netcode device is lost or stolen

It is important that you let us know as soon as you suspect or know that your FastNet Classic Password is known by someone else or if there has been any unauthorised activity on your account. You should also notify us if your Netcode Device has been lost or stolen. You can contact us on 0800 803 804 or 64 9 306 3000.

Always log out

You should log out and close your browser window after you've finished using any online banking services or if you are leaving your desk.

Check that the website is secure

To check if a site is secure, look for https:// at the start of your browsers' address bar. You should also look for the padlock in your browser window, to show that your session is being encrypted. You can then double-click on the padlock to see the level of security being used.

Be careful with emails

Emails are a common way to spread harmful codes or to trick you into revealing your internet banking information. Don't open emails from unknown senders. If you are in doubt about the source of an email, for example if you don't recognise the sender, don't click on any links within the email and delete it. Never open unexpected attachments.

While we will email you from time to time, we will never link to the sign on page of our online banking websites.

Secure your computer

Watch this space for a special security software deal for ASB customers

Use a personal firewall

A personal firewall is your first line of defence between your computer and the outside world. It helps control who can access your computer and protects you from viruses and any other unwelcome visitors.

Some options include:

· Symantec's well respected Norton brand has high quality firewalls that feature regular live updates for the latest threats (

· If you're on a budget, you can download free or low-cost firewall software from companies like Zone Labs (

Install anti-virus software

Viruses, which can be extremely destructive, are pieces of code that attach to your computer. A virus usually accesses your computer via email attachments or from software you install from a CD or DVD or download from the internet. By installing anti-virus software you can protect your computer against the latest viruses. You may already have anti-virus software on your computer, but for it to be effective it must be updated regularly.

Some options include:

· Symantec ( release regular anti-virus software such as their Norton AntiVirus series.

· Virus alerts are also available from Trend Micro (, Panda Antivirus (, McAfee (, and Computer Associates (

Get anti-spyware software

Spyware is a file placed on your computer that can provide information on what you are doing online to a third party. In its worst form, spyware can be used to access personal information such as bank accounts or credit card details. Use should use up-to-date anti-spyware software to protect against programmes that fraudsters can use to collect this information.

These are easy to download and are generally available online for free. You should make sure to regularly update your software.

· Ad-aware (

· Spybot (

Regularly update your operating system

Get the latest software updates from the company that produces your operating system to protect against any security threats. Security updates are released regularly to fix holes in a computer's operating system. You should regularly check your vendor's website to see whether operating system updates are available or select to receive updates automatically.

· Microsoft users can visit:

· Mac users can visit:

Beware of using public or shared computers

Be wary of using other computers (e.g. in an internet cafe, library or university) to access online banking. It's impossible to know if they have up to date protection and you're likely to be overlooked by others.


Related Posts with Thumbnails

All images and information of Sexy Hollywood Celebrities and Hot Fashion Models and any of the media related stuffs displayed on this site are not owned by the publisher. These items have been collected freely from the world wide web and are believed to be of public domain. If you believe you own the copyright to the same as displayed here, please notify us at and they will be promptly removed. All the credits for these items belong to the original cappers, photographers or persons related to making the same..